Danzenbaker Tour Journal: Final Day Aboard the Polar Star

January 23: Day 2 of the Drake Passage

The day started with the Polar Star pounding into seven-meter swells. Our passage was made tolerable due in large part to the deft handling of the boat by our captain. He seemed to choose the optimal angle of attack as we plowed through heavy seas.  The bridge and wings on either side were crowded all morning, as many of our passengers gathered there to get photos of spray over the bow, which sometimes covered the entire deck. 

As we made our way north, there were expected transitions in the species of birds that we were seeing. Slender-billed Prions replaced Antarctic Prions and Blue Petrels filled the void when we stopped seeing Snow Petrels before they, too, disappeared. During the afternoon, albatross numbers increased and I saw my first two Northern Royal Albatrosses of the trip. The second day on the Drake seems to be where we most often encounter this species. We were surprised to get brief looks at a probable Buller’s Albatross that cruised in front of the Polar Star. Unfortunately, it disappeared in the haze before we could make a positive ID.  I've not seen this species since I saw many off Vina del  Mar (central Chile) in the 1980s.  

Gray-headed Albatrosses, like the one pictured above, were plentiful as we sailed the Drake Passage.

Gray-headed and Black-browed albatrosses became more numerous as we neared Cape Horn. I had mixed emotions as we saw two "Big A's" (Southern Royal Albatrosses), our last of the trip. It is always exciting to see this massive albatross, but I was wondering..."would I ever see this magnificent bird again?" The reappearance of Sooty Shearwaters signified that we were returning to more temperate waters. 

Our last day on board concluded with a busy evening of social events – our Antarctica digital image viewing, dinner,  the captain’s toast and introduction/appreciation of Polar Star crew and Cheesemans’ staff.  The final activity was our auction to raise money for the "Save the Albatross" campaign. Past auctions have raised, on average, about $5,500 from the sale of products, photos, and drawings that staff and passengers have donated. This year's highly-successful event raised another $5,700 in support of this worthy cause. Thanks go to Craig Poore, who did masterful job in orchestrating this event!

With disembarkation looming the following morning, the evening ended with a fevered round of luggage packing and contact information sharing. The seas became increasingly calm as we entered the Beagle Channel. Ultimately, it felt like we were cruising on glass. The morning found us docking at the pier at Ushuaia – another highly successful, rewarding, exhausting, wet, fantastic, fun trip to the Great White South completed. Would I ever see it again? I certainly hope I do since there is no place like it on earth.

Memories of the breathtaking scenery one sees in Antarctica (above) and South Georgia (below) will surely tug at my heart for the rest of my days.

I leave this cruise with vivid recollections of penguin-filled beaches, lunge-feeding whales, the grandeur of iceberg filled bays, graceful albatrosses on the wing and on nests with young, multitudes of feeding seabirds, extraordinary Minke Whales under my zodiac,  growling fur seals, glissading down snow fields, the splendor of snow-capped mountains, and the broad smiling faces of enthralled passengers. I hope that I’ll have the opportunity to visit again since the Antarctic isn’t just a place, it’s a state of mind – an unparalleled experience that defies words – a place that will forever be calling me back. My sincerest thanks to the Cheesemans--Doug and Gail and Ted-- and the entire staff for making this yet another great trip! 

All photos by Jim Danzenbaker