Danzenbaker Tour Journal: Antarctic Peninsula -- Day 4

January 18: Cierva Cove, Gerlache, Cuverville Island
 
Although shrouded in low clouds and light rain, the idyllic grandeur of Ciera Cove greeted us this morning. Icebergs of all shapes and sizes were strewn about like a child’s toys and tall snow-capped mountains jutted upwards from the edge of the cove. Gaping cracks in centuries-old glaciers shown various hues of blue, violet, and turquoise.

Shades of color from white to aqua to turquoise accent the many icebergs

The early part of the day was dedicated to zodiac cruising among the icebergs and the study of loafing seals and feeding whales. With eight hearty passengers aboard I launched my zodiac just after breakfast. We marveled at the beautiful lines and textures in icebergs and all their various forms.

We also encountered a lone Leopard Seal swimming around the base of one large berg. Though this seal wasn't on the hunt, and we didn't represent a potential meal, its menacing appearance was still a bit intimidating. We could only imagine what it must feel like to be a penguin in the presence of this marine predator.

Gentoo Penguins occasionally rocketed by our zodiac. While clumsy and plodding on land, their speed and agility in the water amazed us. South Polar Skuas, Antarctic Terns, and Kelp Gulls flew overhead. After several hours of cruising, the prospect of warmth and a hot cup of coffee was cause enough to make a rest stop back at the ship.

Our second round of cruising was a bit more productive than the first. We headed directly for a loafing Crabeater Seal that had been sighted from the bow of the Polar Star. This eight-foot long pinniped lay carefree on its icy bed as we snapped photos. It yawned several times revealing its multi-cusped lower teeth which are used for straining krill, its main food. Continuing on, we located four more photogenic Crabeaters on a floe and then moved on to a Leopard Seal that was spotted on yet another floe.

Leopard Seals, which may reach 12 feet in length, can be seen basking on icebergs in Cierva Cove. They habitually keep a watchful eye on our zodiacs, regardless of their relative location.

At 12 feet in length, the Leopard Seals reside near the top of Antarctic food chain, yielding only to Orcas. This Leopard Seal was wide awake and kept a close eye on us as we maneuvered into position for optimal photos.  The 15-foot rule was strictly enforced as we didn’t want to disturb the scene for other cruisers. 

After this encounter we headed out to more open water and joined three other zodiacs in a search for two Humpback Whales, which had been spotted about 45 minutes earlier. Luck was again on our side as the two whales started to feed within minutes of our arrival. We crept forward at a pace that allowed us to keep up with them. I opted to take an outside track in an effort to avoid any disturbance and to position our zodiac near where I hoped the whales would reemerge. Dumb luck or not, they surfaced a mere 10 meters away from our craft and we were rewarded with astonishing views of  blowholes, dorsal fins and tail flukes. Hearing the sound their blow at point-blank range in this pristine landscape will resonate in my memory forever. Yet again, the appointed hour for our return to the Polar Star came too quickly. During our return drive, two Minke Whales paralleled our zodiac – a fleeting glimpse, but perhaps a sign of things to come.
 
After lunch, we entered the Gerlache Strait, which is affectionately called "Whale Alley" because we routinely see many feeding Humpback Whales during this six-hour stretch. We were not disappointed. Whales gradually started appearing in all directions. By the end of the passage, we had counted 50, including many flukes and one that breached. One by one, Antarctica was revealing its gems!
 
Our final stop of this marathon day was at Cuverville Island, home to a Gentoo Penguin colony, South Polar Skua club, and grounded icebergs. I was again piloting one of the zodiacs, allowing me further opportunity to take in beautiful landscapes featuring finely sculpted icebergs. Cracked glaciers, which always seemed as though they might calve at any moment, held our attention. We were also treated to somewhat surreal views of the Polar Star framed by icebergs against a dramatic gray sky. As we circumnavigated Cuverville Island,  we marveled at Gentoo Penguins nesting on what appeared to be inaccessible terrain. Our ears were filled by the haunting sounds of Kelp Gulls, Antarctic Terns, and Skuas. This day of superlatives soon came to an end, leaving us to anticipate what adventures adventures tomorrow might deliver.

All photos by Jim Danzenbaker