Danzenbaker Tour Journal: Arriving at the South Orkneys

January 13: Coronation Island and icebergs up close and personal
 
After being ship-bound for two days we were chomping at the bit for our landing at Shingle Cove on Coronation Island in the South Orkneys. However, strengthening winds were turning enthusiastic faces to anxious ones. Though the winds were gusty, thankfully the swell was not sufficient to prevent us from landing. Once ashore, I marked a route across the beach, which was covered with Adelie Penguins, to the rocky ledges where Pintado (Cape) Petrels were nesting.

It was apparently colder than normal as I was seeing icicles here for the first time, perhaps explaining the reduced number of petrel nests I would find. Ordinarily, we can count on about 10-12 active nests at this site with much gurgling and cackling as mated birds exchange nest duties. Today, I found only three nests and no calling birds. Even the sky over the beachhead, which is normally filled with birds, had just a few. A nest that is occupied by a Snow Petrel most years, was empty this trip. 

After being underwhelmed by the level of activity in the petrel nesting area, the bustling Adelie Penguin colony was a welcome diversion. There was a steady parade of adult birds going back and forth between the water and the colony, which is upslope from the beach. Departing birds amassed on the shoreline and then, as if on cue, they collectively splashed into the water. 

Once in the water, Adelie Penguins are amazing swimmers. Though they are flightless, they can propel themselves airborne.

Farther upslope, there was unfolding drama. A classic chick chase was occurring as Adelie chicks were chasing an adult all over all over the slope face hoping for a quick meal. For some reason, they abandoned their pursuit of the one adult and started after another. During a brief pause in the action, an opportunistic skua swooped in and attacked one of the unprotected chicks. When the chick tried to run, a second skua joined the fray. With two adult skuas in hot pursuit of a single defenseless penguin chick, the outcome was predictable and a bit gruesome. Eventually, a Southern Giant Petrel came in and wrenched what was left of the penguin carcass away from the skuas. This was not an family-friendly episode. 

Icebergs of unfathomable shapes and sizes dotted the seascape.

 
Our return trip to the ship was one wet and wild zodiac ride. An advancing low pressure system combined with katabatic winds off the Sunshine Glacier produced some interesting swells and chop. We spent much of the afternoon marveling at icebergs as we continued on a southwesterly heading towards Paulet Island and the Antarctic Peninsula. Along the way we saw a few Humpback and Minke Whales. An encounter with an Antarctic Petrel,  just the 8th one I'd ever seen, was the highlight of my day.

All photos by Jim Danzenbaker