Danzenbaker Tour Journal: Day Three in South Georgia

January 8: Hercules Bay and Grytviken

Hercules Bay was kind to us today. Unlike last year’s heavy swell and rain, today brought relatively calm seas and occasional snow showers. We were able to secure both landing sites which allowed folks to spread out a bit since neither site is particularly large. This was a Macaroni Penguin morning with breeders occupying the upland tussocks, and loafers and ocean-bound birds gathering along the rocky coastline. The first landing site was enhanced by a beautiful waterfall that cascaded down to a beach where there was a small group of King Penguins. Single Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins were among the Kings.

One out of about every 800 Fur Seal pups is blonde.

Along the water’s edge, groups of Macaroni Penguins walked along. We examined one another with mutual curiosity. Several harems of "furries" (Fur Seals) dotted the beach as well – a landing wouldn’t be complete without them. Also, many Elephant Seals, including quite a few weaners (this year’s young), lay like plump sausages on the beach. One decided to explore our group and came ever closer to our pile of life jackets, backpacks and dry bags. I had to rescue the gear before the seal lumbered onto them.  While weaving a pathway through the Fur Seals, one belligerent young male bit the end of the broom stick that I was carrying for protection and yanked it right out of my hand – amazingly strong creatures! 

Upon landing, we realized that we needed another zodiac for cruising, so Doug Cheeseman ferried me back to the ship, where we dropped another boat into the water. I ended up getting to pilot that zodiac for several hours. At one point, we idled up next to a large group of Macaroni Penguins that were entering and exiting the waters. Watching the Macaronis, we were reminded of the Rockhoppers that we had seen in the Falklands. These two species are in the same genus and they share the habit of hopping up rocky ledge-lined cliff faces to their nests in the tussocks.

Much to our surprise, Rod Planck found a penguin that didn’t look quite right. The white chin, larger bill, and stocky build led some of us to conclude that it was a Royal Penguin – a life bird for those of us who had not been to islands off Australia. The jury is still out on whether it was a hybrid or a full Royal. Either way it was an exciting find. 

The museum at Grytviken does an excellent job of portraying the history of South Georgia whaling and summarizing Sir Earnest Shackleton’s epic journey of discovery and bravery. Additionally, it presents information on the island’s birds and mammals. The whale bones and oil rendering pots laying in front of the museum serve to remind us of South Georgia’s darker days.

Noon came much too quickly. Once the last zodiac went up on the hook, the Polar Star was headed south to our second landing of the day. Grytviken, located in Cumberland Bay, is located half way down South Georgia and is a mandatory customs stop for every ship visiting the island. While we were being processed through customs, officials from the museum gave a presentation on South Georgia. After clearing customs, most of the passengers headed off the ship for a dry landing. However, my group loaded into a zodiac and crossed the little harbor to visit the old whaler’s cemetery. We quickly located the grave of Sir Earnest Shackleton, then cups were handed out and two bottles of Jack Daniels were divvied up so that we could offer up toast to “The Boss.” Adhering to the local custom, we drank half and poured the remainder on the grave. No one is preserved better than Shackleton!  Craig Poore did a fantastic job delivering the toast.

After taking some photos, we headed off to the abandoned Stromness whaling station (a standing testimony to a darker age in man’s and South Georgia’s history), and the museum. I most wanted to see a new exhibit that includes a life-size replica of the "James Caird," the lifeboat that Shackleton and five others used to travel from Elephant Island to South Georgia. Their route crosses some of the stormiest seas in the world. I purchased a t-shirt for the staff to sign and for Edward Rooks, the trip’s artist, to draw on.  At the end of our voyage it will be donated to our auction that raises money for albatross conservation. 

Afterwards, 20 of us made the 1.5-mile hike to Maiviken Pass, which offers extraordinary vistas looking both north and south, including stunning views of 8800-foot summit of Mt. Paget, which lies south of the pass. Strong winds prevented us from lingering, so it wasn't long before we were headed down slope and back to the Polar Star for a barbeque. Following dinner, we enjoyed a fascinating presentation from a scientist who is studying the importance of krill in the diets of Fur Seals, Macaroni and Gentoo Penguins. His ongoing research will help set limits on seasonal catch taken by the krill harvesting industry. His work appears to show connections between reductions in krill and negative effects on the local populations of South Georgia’s higher predators (fur seals and penguins). Afterwards, sleep never came quicker!

All photos by Jim Danzenbaker