Danzenbaker Tour Journal: Day One in the Falkland Islands

January 1: The Rockhoppers and Black-browed Albatrosses of New Island

After a buffet breakfast, we landed on New Island with beautiful weather and lots of wildlife to observe. We were met by Tony and Kim Chater and a sampling of the island’s bird life. This included our first encounter with "Johnny Rooks" (Striated Caracaras), which breed in the remains of the Protector III. After the logistics of landing 95 people were complete, we broke out into smaller groups – many heading directly to the Black-browed Albatross/Rockhopper Penguin/Blue-eyed Shag colony.

My group of about 20 people enjoyed a very successful bird walk. I was somewhat surprised to come across a group of about 15  Two-banded Plovers that included two downy young. This fairly small shorebird has two distinct breast bands and a chestnut infused brown nape. This was the first time in five years that we'd found this species on this island – we usually get them on most trips, but we never seem to know which island they will be on. Other birds included beautiful Long-tailed Meadowlarks, nesting Magellanic Oystercatchers, a loafing pair of Falkland Steamer-Ducks, Rock Shags, Crested Ducks, Black-chinned Siskins, Dark-faced Ground-Tyrants, and Falklands Thrushes.  Magellanic Penguins brayed from beside their burrows on a far-off hillside while a pair of Southern Sea Lions took time to try to make more sea lions.  A beautiful start to this partly cloudy and fairly warm day!

Kelp Geese are common in the Falkland Islands. The pure white males and strikingly patterned females typically raise three young (as see above). As the name implies, they eat kelp.

Eventually, we headed to the albatross/penguin/shag colony on the other end of the island but not before viewing a family of five Ruddy-headed Geese that were feeding along the trail. Once at the colony, I headed down the gully to an area that is best for viewing loafing Rockhopper Penguins and others returning from the sea. Although tussock-lined and slippery in spots, the descent into this gully was well worth the effort. The gully is a major thoroughfare for Rockhoppers as they plod their way up towards waiting mates and young after successful foraging runs at sea.  To me, it's a slice of heaven – the sights and sounds combine to show nature in the raw.

It is truly memorable to stand at the bottom of this gully and look up at the jagged, ridged sandstone walls that are lined with nesting albatrosses while simultaneously listening to the pitter-patter of tiny Rockhopper Penguin feet as they hop along towards the colony or head out to the sea. At the mouth of the gully, hundreds of loafing penguins take time to rest do some much needed preening after returning with full stomachs. It’s fascinating to watch these penguins enter and exit the frothy sea along this rocky coast – gathering up in ever larger groups until an unknown signal (or critical mass) pushes one, then two, then a hoard of penguins into the surf.                                                                      

Their rule is safety in numbers, since they never know if there is a lurking sea lion or Orca waiting to dine on a wayward penguin. Getting back and forth to the penguin colony looked challenging to me but these little guys take it step by step over this treacherous terrain and conquer seemingly “in-hoppable” distances between rocks with relative ease – sometimes needing extended flippers to balance lest they fall over. What a fantastic bird!

Rockhoppers are hardy penguins that come ashore on rocky coastlines and ascend steep slopes to their nests. Upon emerging from the water, many pause to rest and preen before starting the long climb to the colony on New Island.

In addition to the seabirds, inquisitive Tussock-Birds trilled from sandstone walls and chased each other about. Sometimes they would land mere feet from me, adding yet another dimension to this mecca for bird activity. Once out of the gully, I watched Imperial Shags fly in with bills overflowing with mud and grass that they use to spruce up nest sites. The raucous calls of the Rockhoppers and the wailing of the albatrosses were everywhere. Brown Skuas patrolled from above, ever hopeful of snatching a chick or an egg from a distracted penguin, albatross, or shag. Several Turkey Vultures soared overhead, assuming the same role they do in our part of the world. In an active breeding colony with so much life, death is present too.

Our visit at this colony came to an end all too quickly. We headed back to the landing site where we had a picnic lunch, rearranged gear, and shared tales of our observations with the others. After lunch, many of us started the 4.5 mile walk to the another seabird colony. Another group traveled by zodiac to the second landing site while some opted to return to the Polar Star for a sit-down lunch. I was grateful for the walk since my exercise aboard the ship is limited to going up and down steps (yes, there’s a gym on board, but not used by me).

On the afternoon walk, many Johnny Rooks, Magellanic Oystercatchers, Upland Geese, Correndera Pipits, and Long-tailed Meadowlarks. Prion wings littered the trail in several spots, providing evidence that the numerous Johnny Rooks and skuas in the area aren't going hungry. Since I only see Peregrine Falcons here every three years or so, a brief interaction between a Brown Skua and a Peregrine was unexpected.

When we reached the second colony, it was equally lively as the one we visited in the morning. However, it lacks a gully, so it is not as multi-dimensional. We listened to a rather raucous vocal exchange between two adult Rockhopper parents while their squeaking single chick looked on. This noisy domestic scene captivated our attention. We continued on to a Gentoo Penguin colony, which was very mellow compared to the one visited the previous day’s. A lone King penguin added a bit more color to the scene. I later learned that this penguin had a sterile egg and no mate.

Our return to the second landing site concluded a very successful day ashore. I got in some needed practice piloting a zodiac as we shuttled people back to the ship. It was good to get reacquainted with the feel of this craft under fair conditions. It's not likely that the seas around South Georgia and Antarctica will be so calm. A fine lamb dinner with pleasant conversation was a fitting finish to this day of superlatives.

All photos by Jim Danzenbaker